Kalimpong, 74 km east of Darjeeling and 72 km north of Siliguri, is a bustling and rapidly expanding, although still relatively small, bazaar town. It is set among the rolling foothills and deep valleys of the Himalaya.

It was once part of the lands belonging to the rajas of Sikkim, until the beginning of the 18th century, when the Bhutanese took it from them. In the 19th century it passed into the hands of the British and thus became part of West Bengal. It became a centre for Scottish missionary activity in the late 19th century. Until the outbreak of the Sino-Indian war in 1962, Kalimpong was one of the most important centres of Indo-Tibetan commerce, with mule trains passing over the 10,826ft/3,300m high Jalepla Mountain pass. The Kalimpong-Jalepla road was the largest all-weather route between the two countries. With relations improving between India and China, Kalimpong will probably lose its trans-border business to Gangtok, in Sikkim.

The main crops grown locally are ginger and cardamom. Kalimpong was once densely- forested, but widespread tree felling has left large areas denuded. There are still some areas where tracts of forest still stand, including along the left back of the Teesta River and in the environs of Lava and Richila.

Kalimpong’s attractions include three gompas, a couple of solidly-built churches, a sericulture centre, orchid nurseries, and the fine views over the surrounding countryside. Although not many travelers visit Kalimpong, there is enough here to keep you occupied for a couple of days. For the energetic, there are some good walks around the town.

The Himalaya View Hotel. The Himalaya View Hotel still captures the romance of a turn-of-the-century boarding house. Wood floors and stone walls convey the warm feeling of a mountain lodge, but Tibetan furnishings disclose a different history. Once the home of a leading Kalimpong British family – the author Annie Perry grew up here – the large sitting room with fireplace invites guests to gather and make use of a personal collection of Tibetan literature.