The capital of Sikkim, Gangtok (which means ‘hilltop’), occupies the West Side of a long ridge flanking the Tanipul River. The scenery is spectacular and there are excellent views of the entire Kangchenjunga Range from many points in the environs of the city.

Many people expect Gangtok to be a smaller version of Kathmandu. It’s not, but it is an interesting and pleasant place to stay. Gangtok only became the capital in the mid-1800s (previous capitals were at Yuksom and Rabdentse). The town has undergone rapid modernization in recent years. Gangtok has also become something of a hill station resort, being a popular holiday destination for Bengalis. The influx peaks during the 10-day Dura Puja holiday period at the end of September or early October, when Bengalis converge on the town en masse from the plains.

To the north is Enchey Gompa and the telecommunications tower. The palace of the former chogyal and the impressive Royal Chapel (the Tsuk-La-Khang) are lower down along the ridge. Nearby is the huge Tashiding, or Secretariat complex, and, below it, the relatively recently built Legislative Assembly, both executed in a traditional architectural style. On a continuation of this ridge but much lower is the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology, an Orchid Sanctuary and, not far beyond the institute, a large chorten and adjoining gompa.